During one of my many long walks last week, this one in quest of a good picture framer, I happened upon an excellent new Cuban restaurant. I was just a block off Avenida Remigio Crespo, terra cognita for most of Cuenca´s expats, and it was time for a beer and a bite.
Habana Vieja is nicely presented (with both indoor and outdoor seating) and spotlessly clean. The owner, Lucia, is a charming Ecuadorian who discovered Cuban food in Miami’s Little Havana area, the hotbed of anti-Castroites who fled the Caribbean island in the 1960s. She liked what she tasted and, on her return to Cuenca, she hired a Cuban chef named Omar and decided to share some of her favorite dishes with the locals.
Cuba may be known more for its cigars and rum than for its cuisine, but if, like me, you’re always up for something new and tasty (we’re talking food here!) then I heartily recommend Habana Vieja.
The offerings start with picadas that range in price from $7.50 to $8.75. Initially, I thought the prices a little stiff, but these plates of mixed starters serve two or three people and are a great accompaniment for a delicious Mojito or two ($4.50 each) and pre-dinner conversation. After wandering around the nether lands of South America for a couple of years, I was shocked at the price of booze in Ecuador. I have
two options: get over it or become a teetotaller! I digress. I won´t list all the dishes on the three different picada plates, but know they are all served with fried yucca and sauces.
One item most people know about is the “Cubano” sandwich ($5.25). At Habana Vieja it comes on a baguette with slices of ham, grilled pork loin, cheese and gherkins, and is a meal in itself. Most of the other sandwiches come on a baguette too, and are served with fries, the exceptions being the Cuban Hamburger ($4.50) and the Santa Lucia Especial ($4.95), which are served on special buns.
The house specials are priced for three or five people. Caribbean-style fish, called Bandeja Varadero, with shrimp, calamari and corvina, costs $25 for an order that serves three while the $40 version that serves five. The Bandeja Habanera is a platter of grilled beef, chicken, pork and chorizo, and is $23 for three and $38 for five. And then there’s the Bandeja Cien Fuegos, which is platter of Ropa Vieja (it really teastes better than it sounds!), which is beef slow cooked with onions, tomatoes, peppers until soft and juicy and then shredded: $19 for three and $33 for five. All three specials are served with Cuban rice (arroz congri), a rice and black bean mix, yucca and delicious fried plantains.
There are also individual plates for those who don´t want to share. These range in price from $5.95 for chicken camagueyano, to $7.25 for either enchilado de camaron (delicious fresh shrimp in a Caribbean sauce) or steak palomilla with sauteed onions, and ropa vieja at $6.25 in between. All come with Cuban rice, yucca and fried bananas.
Desserts are $2.25 and include typical flan bathed in a caramel sauce with grated coconut, to be followed up, of course, by the super-delicious Cuban coffee (Cortadito).
In addition to Mojitos, Cubas, Daiquiris and Whisky, one can have a glass of wine for $3.50, or a small Club, Heineken or Corona beer at exorbitant prices. I mean what happened to the Pilsener grande for a buck?! Anyway, all prices include IVA and service, so that’s something.
Havana Vieja is not hard to find; it´s one block south of Remigio Crespo on the corner of Ricardo Muñoz Davila and Padre Matovelle. If you know Frutilado’s on Remigio, head up Ricardo Muñoz Davila, the nearest cross street and you can´t miss it. Tel. 288-5917 or 095-731-049; the owner, Lucia, speaks English. I really like the hours; (Don’t you get bored waiting for restaurants to open at 8 p.m.? Wait no more!) Wednesday through Saturday from 12.30 p.m. to 3 p.m. and again (same days) from 5.00 p.m. until 11 p.m. (You can have dinner at 6 p.m. and be home, glued to the TV, by 8 p.m.!) Havana Vieja is open Sundays from 12.30 p.m to 3 p.m.